What is Art Deco?

Art Deco is known as a style or era relating to the years 1920-1935. Of course, it didn't start on January 1, 1920 and end at the stroke of midnight on December 31, 1935, but the years mentioned are when we see the strongest examples of Art Deco characteristics. As the Deco era approached and as it faded away, we see signs of it mixed in with the era that preceded it and the era that followed. These times are known as transitional times as one era transitions into another.

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Costume jewelry from this time consisted of (but is not limited to):

geometric shapes

angles

strong lines

bright color contrasts

copied from expensive Paris examples

Czech jewelry

German jewelry made with sterling silver, dyed chalcedony (made to imitate chrysoprase), and marcasites

marcasites (faux and real) or what is known as marcasite that is actually pyrite

butterfly wing jewelry

speed related themes such as greyhounds, rockets, airplanes, etc.

Bakelite

Celluloid

filigree

enamel

"fruit salad" jewelry

real and synthetic gems such as jade, coral, onyx, mother of pearl, ivory, lapis, rock crystal, chrysoprase, carnelian, rubies, emeralds, smoky quartz, amozonite

dress clips

duettes

"white" metal made to resemble platinum, often rhodium plated

birthstone jewelry

 

Art Deco Sterling Glass Cameo Necklace

Enamel and Glass Stone Link Bracelet

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Influences

Egyptian themes (following the discovery of the Pyramid tombs)

African and Japanese influences

modern technology influences (The Machine Age)

Jazz Age influences

Hollywood influences

the Paris Exposition - the International Exposition des Arts Decoratifs

the Russian Ballet

Cubism 

the Bauhaus

Vintage Egyptian Revival Enameled Bib Necklace

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Art Deco Jewelry in Different Forms

Necklaces

long flapper beaded necklaces

Czech necklaces with angular glass stones and marcasites

long necklaces worn together with short chokers or wrapped around the neck once to simulate a choker look

faux pearls and glass beads

use of Venetian beads

amber beaded necklaces

rectangular pendants with "Lalique-like" crystals

Czech Signed Deco Glass Necklace

Bracelets

many worn at one time on both wrists (as a symbol of fashion as well as status)

the "bangle" and the "tennis bracelet"

flexible link bracelets

Deco Red Molded Glass Bracelet

Earrings

long dangles worn with "bobbed" hair

screw-back

Art Deco Reverse Carved Sterling Crystal Earrings

Brooches and Pins

circle and oval shapes

"white" clear rhinestone pave set brooches

Florida theme (flamingos and palm trees)

Scottie dogs (Franklin D. Roosevelt had a Scottie dog in the 30's)

gazelles

arrows

air travel themes

Clear  Pave Set Vintage Rhinestone Brooch

Rings

use of large synthetic or semiprecious stones (commonly seen is chrysoprase or onyx)

filigree settings

rectangular shape

Sterling Marcasite and Chrysoprase Glass Deco Ring

Dress Clips

enamel

rhinestones / paste

worn just about everywhere on the body

a staple for the stylish woman

Green Glass Geometric Deco Dress Clip

Buckles

carved and molded glass

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Sources:

Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 - 5th Ed by Jeanenne Bell, G.G. C. Jeanenne Bell, C. Jeanenne Bell (Producer)

Warman's Jewelry: A Fully Illustrated Price Guide to 19th and 20th Century Jewelry, Including Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Costume (2nd Ed) by Christie Romero

Guide created: 17/08/06 (updated 01/19/11)

This blog and all contents Copyright © Vintage Jewelry Girl. All rights reserved.

Vintage and bohemian inspired accessories are back in a big way, with laid back appeal and a certain sense of luxe. The great thing is if you don’t already own authentic vintage pieces, you can easily scoop them up this season. CZ jewelry is a great affordable alternative, and with so many new styles and settings to choose from, you might just get addicted.
CZ jewelry can bring a vintage vibe to casual clothes and help to liven up neutrals. Look for pieces that will compliment interesting patterns, paisley fabrics and artistic accessories. Cubic Zirconia in rich hues like ruby red, deep purple and burnt orange works well with other earth tones. There’s really no wrong way to way this style of Cubic Zirconia jewelry. After all, your overall look should be thrown together, effortless.

Bohemian Cubic Zirconia jewelry is often made from dark metal and contains intricate shapes. Dangly earrings, long pendant necklaces and piles of gold bangle bracelets are all typical of this style. For this season, try a great pair of Cubic Zirconia earrings with a flowing blouse and fur vest. Pair with snuggly boots and a great hobo bag and you’ve got yourself a look that is not only cold weather friendly, but also fashion forward too. Boho Cubic Zirconia jewelry works well for any season and also makes a great gift. After all, the wearer or the recipient can easily make the style their own.

We’ve seen a lot mixing and matching of jewelry in 2009 and boho Cubic Zirconia plays well with that mantra. Add it to pieces from your current jewelry stash, and combine with different textures, lengths and color to create a truly unique look. For example, try polished pieces with fabric jewelry and mix hammered metal with more feminine touches. Nothing is off limits.

Vintage Jewelry Survey - Results Published June, 2008



What do other people who buy vintage jewelry collect? What kinds of designers do people enjoy? How many pieces do they own? Are their interests similar to yours? Here are the most popular answers given by our newsletter subscribers. 



Q. What is your primary reason for buying vintage jewelry?

A. I enjoy collecting it.



Q. What types of costume jewelry do you enjoy buying?

A. Rhinestone, designer signed and "Whatever I like."



Q. 3. Where do you like to buy your jewelry?

A. Antique malls and shops.



Q. Have you bought any vintage costume jewelry in the last year?

A. Yes.



Q. How many pieces do you currently have in your collection?

A. More than 100.



Q. What sources do you use for learning about vintage jewelry?

A. Mostly internet, then books.



Q. How many vintage costume jewelry resource books and guides do you own?

A. 1-5.



Q. Do you have a favorite vintage jewelry designer?

A. No, I like many different designers.



Q. If you had to pick a few, who would be your favorites?



RESULTS (each list of designers is ordered from most to least votes within each category)



Very Popular (Chosen by more than 20 people): Miriam Haskell, Weiss, Trifari



Popular (Chosen by 10-19 people): Coro, Eisenberg, D&E (Juliana)



Moderately Popular (Chosen by 5-9 people): Sherman, Kenneth Jay Lane (KJL), Florenza, Har, Sarah Coventry, Hobe, Kramer, Boucher, Various Mexican Sterling Designers



Less Popular (Chosen by 2-4 people): Mazer / Jomaz, Lisner, Joan Rivers, Joseff of Hollywood, Hollycraft, Demario, David Andersen, JJ, Chanel, Art, Heidi Daus, Matisse, Ciner, Vendome, Schreiner, Nolan Miller, Cini, Pennino, Kirk's Folley, Van Dell, Monet, Whiting & Davis, Panetta, Alice Caviness, WIlliam Kerr



Special Mention (Chosen by 1 person): Bogoff, Hattie Carnegie, Schiaparelli, BSK, Barklay, VRBA, Staret, Sandor, Sweet Romance, Lunch at the Ritz, Piddley Links, Miracle, Sphinx, Butler & Wilson, Selro, Christian Dior, Avon, Jensen, DeRosa, Laguana



So why do all these people like to buy vintage jewelry? What do they do with it? Some answers may surprise you!



The answers in no particular order are:

- to restore

- to wear

- to study

- for re-enactment purposes

- to frame for art display and keepsake

- to re-sell

- for gifting

- to appreciate

- to remind of a loved one

- to brighten up the day

- to capture art and beauty of the past

- to play with



Do you have an interesting collection? Tell us about it!

Every now and then you find a piece that just grabs you for some reason or another. Sometimes it's just really glitzy or the style is one that really appeals to you. Here are some of my fave finds. What are yours? Post a link or a picture!

Hello! I hope your jewelry finds have been good thus far this summer!



I came across a doozy of a brooch and earring set in the most vibrant fuchsia color. The minute I saw it, my instinct said Sherman but I turned it over and no signature! So does this mean the set is for sure not Sherman? Not at all. There is some misinformation out there that all Sherman jewelry was marked. This is not the case. I have had two pieces side by side and not a difference to them and I do very thoroughly inspect my jewelry. Not only that but in beaded parures with the necklace, bracelet and earrings you'll often only find one piece marked although they have the same workmanship and use the same components and may have even came in the same Sherman box. I have a set like that right now that I'm struggling with as well. In addition, other dealer friends agree that they also have had unsigned Sherman.



So, what do you think about attributing unsigned items to a designer?  Is it ethical?  Should price be affected and if so, how much?

Vintage Jewelry Tip Of The Month:Most Useful Reference and Price Guides 05/07

There are so many resource and price guides available for vintage jewelry but how are you supposed to know which ones are most worth investing in? Our library contains over 50 of these books so we've outlined the ones we find most useful for identification, information, and pricing.

1. Unsigned Beauties of Costume Jewelry: Identification and Values by Marcia Sparkles Brown: A collector favorite! - This book has many photos of jewelry of all different kinds. It's fun to search through or pieces you already own! The price guide is reasonable although consideration is not given to unsigned pieces that are known to be from certain manufactures which results in an under pricing for some items.

2. Collecting Rhinestone & Colored Jewelry by Maryanne Dolan. - We like this book not only for the pictures and price guide (most pictures are in black and white) but for the extensive section on designer trademarks. It will encourage you to search for designers you had never heard of before! Almost half of the large 399 page book is dedicated to this topic with images of each mark included.

3. Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry: Covers 1840-1950 by Jeanenne Bell - This book has information about jewelry and fashion specific to each time period with pictures and values to support it. If you are purely interested in costume jewelry, you may be put off by the amount of fine jewelry represented in this book. However, it is a valuable resource for learning about fine pieces and styles which costume jewelry you collect was modeled after.

If you have a more refined, eclectic taste for vintage jewelry, we strongly recommend the following three books. I don't believe "American Costume Jewelry" is being produced anymore so you may have to find it in the second hand market. Please feel free to comment on this if you know more.

A TRIBUTE TO AMERICA by Carla and Roberto Brunialti

AMERICAN COSTUME JEWELRY by Carla and Roberto Brunialti

EUROPEAN DESIGNER JEWELRY by Ginger Moro

What are your favorite books on vintage jewelry? Let us and others know by leaving a comment.

Share some of your collecting habits and find out what others around the world are doing with vintage jewelry. Results will be posted on our web page and blog when they are ready.

Go now!

I've been shopping! If you ever go to San Francisco, be sure to visit Haight Street. There are lots of fun and eclectic stores including the following:

Information from The San Francisco Neighborhood Guide.

Urban Antiques: It's easy to pass the garage door that serves as the entrance to this shop, but inside is filled with 2,700 square feet of antiques. Turn-of-the-century music boxes and clocks are the specialties, though Urban Antiques also offers good deals on well-preserved furniture. Old phonographs and other musical items, such as a mahogany piano stool, are inside as well. 1767 Waller St., (415) 221-0194.

Off the Wall: While one side of Off the Wall focuses on colorful concert posters, mainly limited editions and signed, numbered and silk-screened specimens, the other half spotlights vintage French posters, black-and-white photos of old movie stars and fine-art prints by the likes of Van Gogh and Monet. All posters are in mint condition and can be purchased with the frame or custom-framed at the gallery. 1669 Haight St., (415) 863-8170.

La Rosa: This upscale vintage boutique focuses on clothes and collectables from the '20s to '50s, though there are some items from the '60s and '70s in stock. Dinner jackets, formal dresses, feather hats and other accessories come from all over the world. While shirts range from $65 to $265, some carry as much as a $1,000 price tag, while gowns can cost up to $2,000. 1711 Haight St., (415) 668-3744.

*Photo Information (All images and content Copyright © 2007 VintageCostumeJewelry.com. All rights reserved.

1. Jomaz Star Shaped Earrings

2. Celluloid Link Necklace

Here's our tip of the month for January. Do you know anything about his type of glass or have photos? We'd love to post them here!

Vintage Jewelry Tip Of The Month: What Is Vauxhall Glass?
01/07

Vauxhall glass was so named from a mirror glass which was made in Britain in the early 1700's at a glassworks which was located in Vauxhall, London. It was most commonly made in a deep burgundy color but other colors existed as well. It is considered quite hard to find because much of it became damaged in wearing. For more information, see A Collector's Guide To Costume Jewelry: Key Styles and How To Recognize Them by Tracy Tolkien and Henrietta Wilkinson. You may also want to check out this information on Vauxhall.